Santati

Six Hundred shades and hues of naturally dyed textured silk yarns were developed to give the 3D effect while recreating the paintings in Jamdani weaves. Junaid Khatri the master craftsman from Kutch, with his deep knowledge of natural dyes took up this challenge and used unconventional methods to create colours which have never been done before. For instance eight to ten shades of each colour were created; in white alone he created twelve shades as each shade is significant to throw life to the nuances of the painting. To a lay man it may all just seem as white but if that particular shade of white is not used the painting cannot be replicated in the weaving perfectly. Gaurang says,“These tonal differences were achieved by the dye that was used, and the conditions in which the yarns were dried. If it was the summer’s sunlight the colours would be bright and shiny, but if it was the winter’s sunlight the shade was more muted. Some colours had to be dried in the shade to retain its colour. Once the shade was achieved, it would be treated to colour fix it. While the dying process of the yarns were done, my dyer had to live the painting, think about what time the painting was set, what kind of sunlight it had at that time of the day… how does the setting sun affect the sari colours as opposed to the rising sun, if it was indoors, then what was the light source and how it affected her skin tone… etc.” The yarn used to weave the sarees was procured from the Khadi certified center Ganjam Zilla Khadi Gramodyog Sangh, Odisha.